Repair vs Replace: The Real Cost of a New Phone (UK E-Waste Guide)
A cracked screen or a battery that will not last the day often triggers the same instinct: just buy a new phone. But the environmental and financial maths behind that decision rarely gets looked at properly. Here is what repairing versus replacing actually costs, in money and in carbon, based on real UK e-waste figures.
Quick answer
Manufacturing a new phone causes roughly 80 percent of its entire lifetime carbon footprint, before you have even switched it on. Repairing the phone you already own avoids that cost almost entirely.
The UK disposes of around 25 million mobile phones every year, and only about 31 percent of all UK electronic waste is properly recycled.
A repair typically costs a fraction of a replacement, and for most faults, batteries, screens, charging ports, cameras, it is the cheaper option by a wide margin.
Replacement genuinely makes more sense when a device is very old, no longer receiving security updates, or has structural damage that would cost close to a replacement to fix properly.
The real environmental cost of a new phone
Most people assume a phone’s environmental impact comes mainly from charging it every night. In reality, research consistently shows that manufacturing accounts for somewhere between 75 and 85 percent of a smartphone’s total lifetime carbon footprint, driven largely by mining and refining the metals inside it and producing its circuit boards and chips. Charging and everyday use make up a comparatively small share of the total.
This matters because it means the most carbon-expensive part of your phone’s life has already happened by the time you are deciding whether to fix it or replace it. Repairing a broken screen or battery keeps that sunk environmental cost in use for longer, while buying a new phone means paying that full manufacturing cost again, on top of whatever it costs you in pounds.
UK e-waste, by the numbers
Figure
What it means
~25 million
Mobile phones disposed of in the UK every year
~6 million tonnes
Total electronic waste generated in the UK annually
31%
Share of UK e-waste that is actually recycled
2nd highest
The UK’s rank in Europe for e-waste generated per person
~24kg
Average e-waste generated per person, per year, in the UK
To put the recycling potential in perspective, recovering the materials from just one million recycled phones yields around 16 tonnes of copper, 350kg of silver, 34kg of gold and 15kg of palladium. Every phone that ends up in a landfill or forgotten in a drawer instead of being repaired, resold or properly recycled represents materials that have to be freshly mined all over again for the next device.
What actually happens to the phones we do not deal with properly
The overwhelming majority of unwanted phones do not get recycled responsibly. Many sit unused in drawers for years after being replaced, some are thrown in with general household rubbish despite this being against UK regulations for electronic waste, and a portion are exported, legally or otherwise, to countries with far less robust e-waste processing, where valuable materials are recovered using methods that can be genuinely harmful to the people doing it and the local environment. None of this is necessary for a phone that could have been repaired and kept in use for another year or two, or sold on and used by someone else entirely.
The financial case for repair over replacement
For the most common faults, a screen crack, a battery that no longer lasts the day, a charging port that has stopped making reliable contact, repair costs a fraction of what a new device costs, and often a fraction of even a mid-range replacement. Since these components are also the ones most likely to fail on an otherwise perfectly good phone, a repair usually restores a device to fully working condition rather than just patching around a symptom.
When replacement genuinely makes more sense than repair
Repair is not always the right call, and an honest repairer should tell you when it is not. Replacement tends to make more sense when a phone is old enough to have stopped receiving security updates, when the repair cost approaches a large share of a comparable replacement, or when there is structural damage, such as a bent chassis or a badly cracked back glass alongside other faults, that makes a full recovery impractical. A device that has already been repaired multiple times for unrelated faults is also worth weighing up honestly rather than sinking further cost into.
If your phone has more serious damage such as water damage or will not turn on at all, it is still worth a free diagnostic before assuming the worst. Many faults that look terminal turn out to be straightforward and inexpensive to fix.
If you do replace it, do not let the old one go to waste
When replacement really is the right call, what happens to your old phone still matters. Before you back up and hand it over, see our guide on how to get data off a broken phone if it is not fully working. From there, you have better options than a drawer or the bin.
Sell it. Even a broken phone has resale value. Our guide on where to sell a broken phone covers the best routes, including trade-in and marketplace options.
Buy refurbished instead of new next time. A refurbished device gets full use out of a phone that has already been manufactured, avoiding that 80 percent manufacturing carbon cost entirely. iExpert Market sells fully tested, reliable refurbished phones at a fraction of the price of new.
Recycle it properly through a certified electronics recycler if it genuinely has no resale value left, rather than general waste.
A quick decision guide
Situation
Best option
Cracked screen, worn battery, faulty charging port on an otherwise good phone
Repair
Water damaged or won’t turn on, cause unknown
Free diagnostic first, then repair if viable
Very old device, no more security updates, repair cost close to replacement
Replace, ideally with a refurbished device
Old phone still working after you upgrade
Sell it or hand it on rather than storing or binning it
Frequently asked questions
Is repairing a phone actually better for the environment than replacing it?
In almost all cases, yes. Since manufacturing causes roughly 80 percent of a phone’s lifetime carbon footprint, keeping your existing phone in use through repair avoids that cost, while a new phone means paying it again in full.
How much UK e-waste is actually recycled?
Around 31 percent of all UK electronic waste is properly recycled, despite the UK generating roughly 6 million tonnes of e-waste every year and having one of the highest e-waste rates per person in Europe.
What should I do with a phone I am not going to repair?
Sell it if it has any resale value, even broken, hand it on to someone who can use it, or recycle it through a certified electronics recycler as a last resort. Avoid letting it sit unused or putting it in general waste.
Is buying refurbished actually more sustainable than buying new?
Yes. A refurbished phone has already absorbed its manufacturing carbon cost in a previous life, so buying one instead of new avoids that cost being paid again, while still getting you a fully tested, working device.
Get an honest opinion before you decide
We diagnose every device honestly and tell you if repair is not worth it, rather than pushing a repair that does not make sense. If it is, we can usually have it done the same day.
Right to Repair in the UK: What Phone Owners Actually Need to Know
“Right to repair” gets thrown around a lot, and a fair amount of what circulates online about it is out of date or simply wrong. Here is what UK law actually says today about getting your phone fixed, what is genuinely changing, what still is not law despite some headlines claiming otherwise, and whether using an independent repairer instead of the manufacturer affects your warranty.
Quick answer
Your main legal protection today is the Consumer Rights Act 2015, not “right to repair” specifically. It gives you a statutory right to a repair, replacement or refund for faulty goods, separate from any manufacturer warranty.
The UK’s existing 2021 “Right to Repair” regulations do not currently cover phones, tablets or laptops. They apply to household appliances such as washing machines, dishwashers, fridges and TVs.
Northern Ireland is the exception. It follows the EU’s newer Ecodesign rules for smartphones and tablets, which took effect in June 2025 and do require longer spare parts availability and more durable batteries.
Using an independent repairer instead of the manufacturer does not automatically void your warranty in most circumstances, though the specifics depend on your warranty terms and what actually goes wrong afterwards.
Your actual legal right to a repair: the Consumer Rights Act 2015
This is the law that matters most in practice, and it applies to every phone, tablet and laptop bought in the UK, regardless of brand. It gives you a statutory right to a repair, replacement or refund if a product is faulty, of unsatisfactory quality, or not fit for purpose, and it exists entirely separately from any manufacturer warranty. The exact remedy available depends on how long you have owned the item.
0 to 30 days: you have a short-term right to reject faulty goods and demand a full refund.
30 days to 6 months: the retailer gets one opportunity to repair or replace the item. If that attempt fails, you are entitled to a refund.
After 6 months: you can still claim, generally up to 6 years in England and Wales, but the burden shifts to you to show the fault was present at the time of purchase rather than caused by wear, damage or misuse.
This right sits with the retailer you bought from, not the manufacturer, and it is a separate, additional protection on top of whatever warranty came in the box.
Does the UK actually have a “right to repair” law for phones?
Not yet, and this is worth clearing up because it gets misreported. The UK introduced the Ecodesign for Energy-Related Products and Energy Information Regulations 2021, often nicknamed the “Right to Repair Regulations”, which require manufacturers to make spare parts and repair information available to professional repairers. However, these regulations currently apply to a specific list of household appliances: washing machines and washer-dryers, dishwashers, refrigeration appliances, and electronic displays such as televisions.
Phones, tablets and laptops are not on that list. Consumer groups including Which? and the Green Alliance have been pushing the government to extend the regulations to cover them, and it remains a live campaign issue, but as things stand there is no dedicated UK right to repair law specifically covering smartphones.
Northern Ireland vs Great Britain: a real difference
This is where it gets genuinely different depending on where in the UK you are. Northern Ireland continues to align with EU single market rules for goods under the Windsor Framework, which means the EU’s newer Ecodesign for Smartphones and Tablets Regulation, in force since June 2025, applies there directly.
That EU regulation is considerably more specific than anything currently in force in Great Britain. It requires manufacturers to make critical spare parts, such as batteries, screens, charging ports, cameras, microphones and speakers, available to professional repairers within 5 to 10 working days, for at least 7 years after a model stops being sold. It also sets minimum durability standards, including batteries that must retain at least 80 percent of their original capacity after 800 full charge cycles, and requires devices to resist accidental drops and basic water exposure.
England, Scotland and Wales do not currently have an equivalent smartphone-specific regulation of their own.
Why the EU rules affect UK buyers anyway
Manufacturers rarely build a separate, less repairable version of the same phone just for one market. When a rule forces a phone to be designed with replaceable batteries and available spare parts for the EU and Northern Ireland, that same design almost always ships to the rest of the UK too, simply because it is not commercially sensible to run two different production lines. In practice, this means recent flagship phones sold in Great Britain have often become somewhat easier to repair even without a matching domestic law, purely as a side effect of EU rules elsewhere.
Will Great Britain get its own smartphone right to repair law?
Possibly, but there is no confirmed date, and it is worth being sceptical of anything online that states one with confidence. Under the previous government, policy work exploring an expansion of right to repair rules was underway, but it had not progressed to a firm proposal before it stalled, and it remains unclear whether or when the current government will take it forward. If and when new rules are confirmed, we will update this guide.
In the meantime, the practical reality for most people is a mix of the Consumer Rights Act 2015, manufacturer warranties, and, if you happen to be in Northern Ireland, the stronger EU-aligned rules.
Does having your phone repaired elsewhere void your warranty?
This is one of the most common worries we hear, and in most cases the answer is no. A manufacturer cannot lawfully void your entire warranty simply because a repair was carried out by someone other than themselves. Competition law in both the UK and EU has long protected the right of independent repairers and consumers to use non-manufacturer parts and services without automatically losing warranty cover on unrelated parts of the device.
What a manufacturer can usually do is decline to cover a specific fault if it was directly caused by a poor-quality independent repair. For example, if a badly fitted screen damages the display cable, the manufacturer may reasonably refuse to cover that specific display fault under warranty, while the rest of your device’s warranty remains intact. This is exactly why the quality of the repairer you choose matters. A properly carried out repair using suitable parts should not create warranty problems on components it never touched.
It is always worth checking your specific manufacturer’s warranty terms, since wording varies, but “any independent repair voids your entire warranty” is a myth far more often than it is an enforceable reality.
What this means in practice if your phone breaks
If it broke within 30 days of purchase, contact the retailer first. You are entitled to a full refund under the Consumer Rights Act 2015.
Between 30 days and 6 months, the retailer gets one attempt at a repair or replacement before you can insist on a refund.
Outside of that window, or if you would simply rather not go through the retailer, an independent repairer such as ourselves can usually fix the fault faster and often more cheaply than a manufacturer-led process, without voiding cover on the rest of your device.
If you are out of any statutory or manufacturer cover entirely, which is common on older devices, independent repair is very often the most cost-effective route back to a working phone.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a UK right to repair law for smartphones yet?
Not specifically. The UK’s 2021 Right to Repair Regulations cover household appliances only. Northern Ireland is the exception, where EU smartphone Ecodesign rules have applied since June 2025.
What is my strongest legal protection if my phone is faulty?
The Consumer Rights Act 2015. It applies UK-wide, covers every device regardless of brand, and gives you a statutory right to a repair, replacement or refund, separate from any manufacturer warranty.
Will using an independent repairer void my Apple or Samsung warranty?
Not automatically. Manufacturers cannot lawfully void your entire warranty just for using a third party. They can decline to cover a specific fault that a poor repair directly caused, which is why repair quality matters more than who carries it out.
Does buying a phone in Northern Ireland give me better repair rights?
Yes, in terms of manufacturer obligations. Devices sold there fall under EU Ecodesign rules requiring 7 years of spare parts availability and more durable batteries, which do not currently apply in England, Scotland or Wales.
Get your device repaired properly, wherever you are
Whatever your statutory rights look like on paper, a reliable independent repair is often the fastest and most cost-effective way back to a working device, and it will not put your device’s remaining warranty at risk when carried out properly.
Not sure whether a repair is worth it on an older device? Our guide on where to sell a broken phone covers the alternative, or contact us for a free, honest diagnosis either way.
A MacBook that will not turn on is not always as serious as it looks. A stuck sleep state, a display sending video to an external monitor instead of the built-in screen, or a battery flat enough that it needs several minutes on charge before responding can all look identical to a dead machine. This guide covers how to tell the difference, the fixes worth trying yourself, and when it genuinely needs a professional look.
Quick answer: why your MacBook will not turn on
Completely dead, no lights, no sound, no fan? Almost always a charging or battery fault. Try a different cable and charger before anything else.
Fan spins and you can hear it, but the screen stays black? The MacBook is on. This is usually a display or graphics fault, not a power fault.
Turns on then shuts off again within seconds? Points to a battery or logic board fault rather than something a restart will fix.
Recently had a spill or drop? Stop trying to turn it on repeatedly and get it looked at, since repeated power attempts on damaged hardware can turn a fixable fault into an unfixable one.
Just updated macOS? A long startup screen with a progress bar is normal after an update, and can take considerably longer than usual.
First, check whether it is actually off, or just a black screen
Listen and feel for the fan. If it is running, the MacBook is powered on even with a black screen.
Press any key or tap the trackpad in case it is simply asleep with the display dimmed right down.
Turn brightness up with the function keys in case it powered on with the screen at its dimmest setting.
Disconnect any external monitor. If one was connected last, some MacBooks will send video output there instead of the built-in display.
Plug into power for at least 15 to 30 minutes before trying again, in case the battery is simply too flat to boot.
How to tell a dead MacBook from a dead screen
A MacBook that seems completely lifeless is sometimes fully powered on underneath a screen that has simply stopped displaying anything, which is a very different, usually cheaper, repair. A few checks tell the two apart before you assume the worst.
Listen for the startup chime. Older Intel MacBooks play a sound on boot. If you hear it, the machine is powering on regardless of what the screen shows.
Feel for the fan and check the vents. Hold the MacBook near your ear, close to the hinge where the vents sit, and feel or listen for airflow and fan noise. Warmth and movement mean it is running.
Shine a torch at an angle across the closed lid area, or very close to the screen once open. If you can make out a very faint, dim image, the backlight has failed but the display panel and logic board are still working. This points to a backlight or screen repair rather than anything more serious.
Press the Caps Lock key. If the indicator light comes on, the keyboard and logic board are receiving power, which again points toward a screen fault rather than a dead machine.
Connect an external monitor via HDMI or a USB-C to HDMI adapter. A picture on the external screen confirms the MacBook itself is fully working and the fault is isolated to the built-in display.
If none of these show any sign of life at all, no chime, no fan, no warmth, no external display, the fault is much more likely to be power related, covered in the charging section below.
Common causes of a MacBook that will not turn on
Cause
Typical signs
What usually fixes it
Flat or failed battery
No response even on charge, or dies again within minutes of unplugging
Battery replacement
Faulty charging port or cable
No charging light, or light flickers when the cable is moved
Charging port repair
Stuck sleep or software freeze
Fan running, keyboard lit, but screen unresponsive
Force restart
Liquid damage
Recent spill, keys sticking, intermittent power
Professional cleaning and diagnostic, urgently
Display or graphics fault
Fan and startup sound present, screen stays black
Screen or logic board diagnostic
Drop or impact damage
Cracked case, hinge damage, power loss after a fall
Full diagnostic before further use
Unplug everything before troubleshooting further
MacBooks have a built-in safety feature that cuts the power-on process short if a connected accessory is drawing an unusual or short-circuited amount of current. A faulty USB hub, external drive, dongle or even a damaged charging cable can be enough to stop the machine powering on at all, and it is one of the quickest things to rule out.
Disconnect absolutely everything, printer cables, USB hubs, external drives, HDMI or display adapters, and the charger itself, then try the power button on battery alone. If that does not work, reconnect only the charger and try again. Adding accessories back one at a time after that will quickly reveal if one of them is the actual culprit.
How to force restart your MacBook
On any MacBook, whether it has an Apple Silicon chip (M1, M2, M3 or later) or an older Intel processor, hold the power button down for around 10 seconds until the screen goes black and any fan noise stops. Release it, wait a few seconds, then press the power button once to turn it back on. This clears a frozen state without affecting your files.
Resetting SMC and NVRAM: only applies to older Intel MacBooks
If you have an Intel-based MacBook, a System Management Controller (SMC) reset and an NVRAM reset are two further troubleshooting steps worth trying for power-related faults. On models with a non-removable battery, shut down, then hold Shift, Control, Option and the power button together for 10 seconds. For NVRAM, restart and immediately hold Command, Option, P and R for around 20 seconds until you hear the startup sound twice. MacBooks from 2018 onward with an Intel processor use Apple’s T2 security chip, which took over the SMC’s job. To reset it, shut down, then hold Control and Option on the left of the keyboard together with Shift on the right for 7 seconds, then also hold the power button for a further 7 seconds while still holding the other three, then release all four at once.
Apple Silicon MacBooks (M1 and later) do not have a separate SMC to reset, and NVRAM is managed automatically by the system, so neither of these steps applies. A simple force restart, as above, is the equivalent fix on these models.
Unusual beeping sounds on startup
On older MacBooks, a series of repeating beeps as you try to power on points to a memory fault rather than a battery or charging issue. One beep repeating every five seconds generally means no memory has been detected at all, while three beeps followed by a pause, repeating, means installed memory has failed a data integrity check.
On any MacBook Air or MacBook Pro from 2012 onward, memory is soldered directly to the logic board rather than fitted in removable slots, so beep codes on these models point to a logic board fault rather than something you could reseat or swap yourself. This is a case where a proper diagnostic is the only sensible next step.
Charging related causes
Plug in with a cable and charger you know works, ideally not the one you suspect is faulty, and check for a charging light if your model has one. On MagSafe models, amber or orange means charging and green means fully charged. No light at all after several minutes on a known-working charger points to either a battery that has failed completely or a charging port that is not making contact, both of which need a professional repair rather than further troubleshooting at home.
MacBook repairs, covering battery and charging port faults across every model
Laptop repair, for general power and charging diagnostics
MacBook will not turn on after a spill or liquid exposure
Switch it off immediately if it is still on, disconnect the charger, and do not attempt to turn it back on to test it. Liquid causes a short circuit the moment power is applied to a wet board, and every additional attempt to power on increases the risk of permanent damage. Do not use a hairdryer or leave it in rice. The safest thing you can do is get it opened, cleaned and properly dried by someone who can do this without applying power, as quickly as possible.
Every MacBook has small liquid contact indicators built in near the areas most likely to let moisture through, typically under the keyboard, trackpad, and around the edges of the logic board. These change colour, usually to red or pink, once they have been in contact with liquid, which is how a technician confirms liquid exposure even weeks after the event and even if the MacBook appears to be working normally again.
Liquid on the keyboard or trackpad specifically can cause problems beyond the obvious: both share a power rail with the SMC itself, so a short circuit in either one can stop the entire MacBook responding to the power button, even though the fault is really in the keyboard or trackpad rather than the power system. This is why a MacBook that stops turning on straight after a spill on the keyboard is not necessarily as serious as it first looks, but it does need proper diagnosis rather than guesswork to tell the difference.
MacBook will not turn on after a drop or impact
A fall can dislodge internal connectors, crack the logic board, or damage the battery without any visible sign on the outside of the case. If your MacBook stopped turning on immediately after being dropped, avoid repeated power attempts and have it diagnosed before assuming the worst. Internal damage from a drop is often more repairable than people expect, particularly if the battery itself has not been punctured.
Which MacBook do you have?
Find your exact model below for specific repair information and pricing, or visit the full MacBook repairs hub if yours is not listed here.
Stop trying fixes yourself and book a diagnostic if the MacBook shows no response at all after 30 minutes on a known-working charger, if it has been dropped or exposed to liquid, if it turns on then shuts off repeatedly, or if you can smell burning or see swelling around the trackpad or keyboard, which is a sign of a swollen battery and should be treated urgently.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my MacBook charging light not coming on?
Try a different cable and charger first, since these fail more often than the MacBook itself. If a known-working charger still shows no light, the charging port or battery is the most likely cause.
Can a MacBook battery just die without any warning?
Yes. Batteries degrade gradually, but the point where they can no longer hold enough charge to boot the machine can feel sudden, especially if you rely on macOS’s battery percentage rather than checking battery health directly.
Is it safe to keep pressing the power button if nothing happens?
If the MacBook is dry and has not been dropped, a few attempts will not cause harm. If it has been wet or dropped, stop, since repeated power attempts on damaged hardware are one of the most common ways a repairable fault becomes unrepairable.
Will I lose my files if my MacBook will not turn on?
Not usually. Most causes, including battery, charging port and display faults, do not touch the storage drive, and your files are recovered along with the repair. Board level faults are the exception, which is why an honest diagnostic before any work begins matters.
Get a free diagnostic
Whatever the cause, our engineers diagnose MacBooks honestly before any work begins and confirm the cost upfront.
If you have a Windows laptop instead, our guide on why is my laptop not turning on covers brand-specific troubleshooting for Dell, HP and Lenovo. Or get in touch on our contact us page for advice on your exact model.
Why Is My Phone So Slow? Causes & How to Speed It Up
A phone that used to feel instant and now lags on everything is almost always down to one of a handful of causes: nearly full storage, an ageing battery that can no longer supply full power, too many apps running in the background, or a genuine hardware fault. The fix is different for each, and running the wrong one wastes time without solving anything. Here is how to work out which one you have and fix it.
Quick answer: why phones slow down
Storage nearly full? This is the single most common cause. Free up space and performance usually recovers immediately.
Battery old or health below 80 percent? Your phone may be deliberately throttling performance to avoid random shutdowns.
Just updated the software? Slowdowns for a day or two after a major update are normal while the system reindexes.
Phone is several years old and slow everywhere, even after a factory reset? That is usually a hardware limitation rather than something fixable with software.
Slow only in specific apps? That points to the app itself, or your Wi-Fi and mobile data, rather than the phone.
Slow internet vs a genuinely slow phone
Before assuming your phone itself is the problem, rule out your connection. A weak Wi-Fi signal or poor mobile data coverage can make browsing, streaming and app loading feel exactly like a slow phone, even when the device itself is running perfectly. This is one of the most common causes of a phone that only feels slow in certain apps or locations.
iPhone: go to Settings, then Wi-Fi, and confirm you are connected to the right network with a strong signal. If problems persist, go to Settings, then General, then Transfer or Reset iPhone, then Reset, then Reset Network Settings. This clears saved Wi-Fi passwords and network configurations, so you will need to reconnect afterwards.
Android: go to Settings, then Network and Internet, then Wi-Fi, and check the connected network. Tap the network name, select Forget, then reconnect with the password to refresh the connection.
If neither fixes it, try loading a website or app over mobile data instead of Wi-Fi, or vice versa, to work out whether the fault is your home network, your mobile signal, or the phone itself.
If everything is fast on a strong connection but slow the moment you switch networks, the issue is your internet rather than your phone, and no repair will fix it.
Software fixes to try first
Restart your phone. This clears background processes and memory leaks that build up over days of use and is genuinely the fastest fix available.
Check your storage. On iPhone go to Settings, then General, then iPhone Storage. On Android go to Settings, then Storage. Once a phone passes around 90 percent full, the operating system struggles to manage temporary files and everything slows down.
Update your software. Manufacturers regularly release performance and battery fixes, and running an old, unsupported version can make normal tasks feel sluggish.
Close and offload unused apps. Apps left open in the background continue to use memory and battery. On iPhone, offloading unused apps in Settings removes the app but keeps its data.
Clear app caches and browser data. Social media apps and browsers in particular can build up several gigabytes of cached data that quietly slows the whole phone down.
Remove live wallpapers and heavy widgets. These run constantly in the background and cost more performance and battery than they are usually worth.
Turn off location services for apps that do not need them. Constant GPS tracking in the background is one of the heavier drains on both processing power and battery, particularly for apps you rarely open.
Make restarting a weekly habit rather than a last resort. A phone left running for weeks at a time accumulates far more background clutter than one restarted regularly, and the difference in day-to-day speed is noticeable.
Storage almost full: the most common cause
Modern phones use spare storage space as working memory for everyday tasks like switching between apps, loading photos and running the camera. When storage gets close to full, the phone has nowhere left to work and everything from opening apps to typing a message starts to lag. The biggest space users are almost always large videos, duplicate photos synced from messaging apps, and cached data from apps you barely use. Deleting a handful of long videos or clearing WhatsApp’s media cache often fixes a slow phone in minutes, with no repair needed at all.
Malware and junk apps
On Android, apps installed from outside the Play Store, or Play Store apps that ask for far more permissions than they need, can run constantly in the background, drain the processor, and generate network traffic you never asked for. This shows up as a phone that is slow everywhere, gets warm even when idle, and burns through battery faster than it used to.
Go to Settings, then Apps, and sort by battery or data usage to spot anything unfamiliar or using far more than it should.
Uninstall anything you do not recognise or no longer use, particularly apps installed outside the Play Store.
Run a scan with a reputable security app if you suspect something more serious, especially after clicking a link in a text or downloading an app from outside the official store.
iPhones are far less susceptible to this particular cause thanks to Apple’s app sandboxing and App Store review process, though the same principle of removing unused or suspicious apps still applies if you have installed anything through a third-party profile or configuration.
Hardware causes: when it is not software
If you have freed up storage, restarted, and updated the software and the phone is still slow everywhere, the cause is more likely to be hardware.
An ageing or degraded battery. As a battery wears down, it becomes less able to deliver quick bursts of power. Both iPhone and Android manufacturers build in performance throttling that automatically slows the processor down to prevent the phone randomly switching off when the battery cannot keep up. This is one of the most common causes of a phone that used to feel fast suddenly feeling sluggish, and it is also one of the easiest to fix.
Failing memory (RAM). RAM is your phone’s short-term working memory, used every time you switch between apps or the camera loads quickly. It is not something that wears out the way a battery does, but on a phone that has suffered drop or water damage, a loose or failing memory chip can cause exactly the same symptoms as general slowness, along with random app crashes or restarts. Unlike a laptop, phone memory is soldered directly to the logic board and cannot be swapped out, so a genuine RAM fault points to a board-level diagnostic rather than a part you could replace yourself.
A failing charging port or intermittent charge. A phone that is not charging reliably overnight can wake up on low battery and immediately throttle itself for the rest of the day, which feels identical to a general slowdown even though the real fault is the charging port or cable.
Past water or liquid exposure. Even a phone that survived a splash and kept working can develop light corrosion on internal connections over the following weeks, causing components to intermittently underperform. If your phone has been wet at any point and started slowing down since, this is worth ruling out. See our water damaged phone guide or book a water damage repair.
iPhone specific causes of slowdown
Check your battery health under Settings, then Battery, then Battery Health and Charging. Apple flags anything below 80 percent as significantly degraded, and this is usually accompanied by a note about peak performance capability if throttling is active. Also check that Low Power Mode is not stuck on, since it deliberately reduces background activity and visual effects to save battery. If your iPhone is still slow with a healthy battery and normal storage, our iPhone repairs team can run a full diagnostic.
Android specific causes of slowdown
Android slowdowns often come from manufacturer software layers such as Samsung’s One UI or pre-installed apps you never use running in the background. Go into Settings, then Apps, and check which apps are using the most battery and data in the background, then disable or uninstall anything you do not need. Fragmented storage on older Android phones can also contribute, particularly on devices with 32GB or 64GB of storage that are now running several years of accumulated app updates. Significant Locations and background location history, found under Settings, then Privacy, can also be worth checking on both platforms, since apps with constant location access in the background are a common hidden drain that rarely gets noticed until battery and speed both suffer.
When it is time to repair, and when it is time to replace
A battery or charging port repair on a phone that is a couple of years old is almost always worth doing, and usually solves a slowdown completely. On a phone that is five years old or more, running an operating system version close to the end of its support life, it is worth weighing up the cost of a repair against a newer, faster device. If a repair is not the right call, iExpert Market offers reliable refurbished phones at a fraction of the cost of buying new.
A simple order to troubleshoot in
With this many possible causes, it helps to work through them in the order they are most likely to actually be the problem, rather than trying everything at once.
Restart the phone. Takes 30 seconds and fixes more than people expect.
Check storage and free up space if it is above roughly 90 percent full.
Confirm it is not just your Wi-Fi or mobile signal by testing on both.
Update the operating system if you are behind on updates.
Check battery health and consider a replacement if it has dropped significantly.
Review background apps and permissions, and remove anything unfamiliar.
If it is still slow everywhere with none of the above explaining it, book a diagnostic to check for a charging, RAM or logic board fault.
Frequently asked questions
Does closing background apps actually make a phone faster?
Rarely, and sometimes it makes things slower, since reopening a closed app from scratch uses more resources than resuming it from the background. Restarting the phone entirely is far more effective than manually closing every app.
Will a factory reset speed my phone up?
Often, yes, if the slowdown is caused by years of accumulated apps, cached data and background processes. It will not help if the real cause is an ageing battery or a hardware fault, so back up your data first and try the simpler fixes above before resetting.
Why does my phone slow down right after a software update?
This is usually temporary. Updates reindex Spotlight or Google search data, rebuild caches and reinstall background services, which can make the phone feel sluggish for a day or two before settling back to normal.
Does battery health really affect how fast a phone feels?
Yes. Both iOS and Android intentionally reduce processor speed on phones with a badly worn battery to prevent unexpected shutdowns, which can make a phone feel noticeably slower even though the processor itself has not changed.
Is it worth repairing an old, slow phone?
Usually, if the fix is a battery or charging port. It is worth thinking twice on very old devices that are no longer receiving software updates, where a refurbished replacement may serve you better long term.
Does Apple deliberately slow down old iPhones?
Not deliberately to force upgrades, despite the “Batterygate” controversy in 2017 when Apple admitted to throttling performance on iPhones with degraded batteries. The company’s explanation, which it still maintains, is that this was a software protection to prevent phones with worn batteries from randomly shutting off under heavy load, not a scheme to push people toward new devices. Apple now shows battery health and any active performance throttling directly in Settings, so you can check and address it yourself with a battery replacement rather than a new phone.
Still slow after trying everything?
If you have freed up storage, restarted, updated your software and your phone is still noticeably slower than it used to be, book a diagnostic and we will tell you honestly whether a battery, charging port or another repair will fix it, or whether your money is better spent elsewhere.
The right way to get data off a broken phone depends entirely on what “broken” means. A cracked but working screen, a black unresponsive display, a phone that will not turn on, and a water damaged phone each need a different approach, and trying the wrong one can make things worse or destroy data that was still recoverable. This guide covers every scenario, what to check before you assume your photos and messages are gone, and when it genuinely needs a professional.
Quick answer: how to recover data from a broken phone
Screen cracked but still responds to touch? Back up normally via iCloud, Google, or a cable to a computer.
Screen black or unresponsive but the phone powers on? Try screen mirroring or an external mouse before assuming data is lost.
Phone will not turn on at all? Rule out a charging fault first, then a professional diagnostic is the only way to know if data is recoverable.
Water damaged? Do not charge it or keep pressing the power button. Switch it off, remove the SIM, and get it looked at quickly before corrosion spreads.
Already checked your cloud backup? A lot of “lost” data is already sitting safely in iCloud, Google Photos or Samsung Cloud.
If your screen is cracked but the phone still works
A cracked screen that still responds to touch and displays clearly is the easiest scenario. Back up as normal: connect to Wi-Fi and let iCloud or Google back up automatically, or plug the phone into a computer with a cable and copy photos, contacts and files directly. Once everything important is safely backed up, it is worth getting the screen fixed properly rather than continuing to use a device with broken glass, since cracks spread and can eventually stop the display working altogether.
If your screen is black or unresponsive but the phone powers on
If you can hear notifications, feel vibrations, or see the screen light up faintly but cannot see or touch anything usable, the phone may still be fully functional underneath a broken display or digitiser. Do not assume the data is gone before trying these.
Screen mirroring. On iPhone, connect to a Mac with a cable and use QuickTime Player’s “New Movie Recording” with the phone selected as the camera source to see and sometimes interact with the screen. On Android, tools such as scrcpy, or a manufacturer’s own screen mirroring feature via a Smart TV or Chromecast, can display and control the phone from another device.
An external mouse. Recent iPhones support AssistiveTouch with a Bluetooth mouse, letting you navigate blind if you know your passcode and app layout. Many Android phones support USB or Bluetooth mice in the same way.
Voice assistants. Siri or Google Assistant can sometimes trigger a manual backup or open specific apps by voice alone, even with a completely dead display.
If the display itself is the fault, for example after a drop that left the screen black with a working phone underneath, our unresponsive touchscreen guide and green line on screen guide cover related display faults and what usually causes them.
If your phone will not turn on at all
Before assuming the worst, rule out a simple charging fault. Plug the phone in with a known-working cable and charger, leave it for at least 30 minutes, and try a force restart. If there is still no sign of life, the cause is usually a battery that has fully discharged and failed, or a charging port that is not making contact. Our guide to a phone that will not turn on walks through the full troubleshooting process.
If charging genuinely makes no difference, the fault is likely on the logic board itself. This is the point where a professional diagnostic is the only reliable way to find out whether your data can still be recovered, since opening the phone yourself without the right tools risks damaging the storage chip and losing everything for good.
If your phone is water damaged
Water damage is the most time-sensitive scenario for data recovery. Corrosion starts spreading across the circuit board within hours of exposure, and every extra charge cycle or power-on attempt pushes current through components that may already be shorting.
Switch the phone off immediately if it is still on, and do not turn it back on to “check” if it still works.
Do not plug it in to charge. This is one of the most common causes of a short circuit that turns a recoverable phone into an unrecoverable one.
Remove the SIM card and any case, and dry the outside gently. Skip the rice: it does little for internal moisture and dust from it can cause its own problems.
Get it looked at as soon as possible. The sooner a phone is professionally opened, cleaned and dried, the better the chances of both a full repair and full data recovery.
Check your cloud backup before assuming anything is lost
Many people pay for professional data recovery on a phone that already has everything important safely backed up. It is worth checking from another device before you do anything else.
iPhone: sign in at icloud.com from a computer or another device and check Photos, Contacts and Notes. Check Settings, then your name, then iCloud on another Apple device to see when the last backup ran.
Android: sign in to photos.google.com and drive.google.com with the same Google account, or check Samsung Cloud via account.samsung.com if you have a Samsung device.
Messages: WhatsApp backs up separately to Google Drive or iCloud depending on your phone, and is worth checking on its own since it is not always included in a standard device backup.
If your last backup is weeks or months old, or specific things like WhatsApp media, voice memos or offline documents are missing, that gap is what professional recovery is actually solving, rather than starting from zero.
Professional data recovery: what we do and when it is needed
When a phone cannot be turned on, mirrored or controlled by any of the methods above, the only remaining way to reach your data is by working on the device itself. Depending on the fault, this can mean carefully repairing just enough of the phone, such as a screen or battery, to get it booting again long enough to back up, or in more serious cases removing the storage chip directly and reading it on specialist equipment.
We always diagnose first and tell you honestly whether recovery looks realistic and what it would involve before any work begins, rather than charging for an attempt with no clear chance of success.
What not to do when trying to recover data from a broken phone
Do not repeatedly restart a water damaged phone to “see if it works”. Every attempt risks a short circuit that makes recovery harder or impossible.
Do not attempt a DIY screen or battery swap on a phone holding data you cannot afford to lose, without backing up first wherever possible. A slipped tool or a torn cable can turn a simple repair into a data loss situation.
Do not ignore early corrosion signs such as a phone that switches itself off randomly after water exposure, even if it seems to be working again.
Be cautious with cheap online DIY data recovery kits and software for physically broken phones. Most consumer recovery software only helps with deleted files on a working device, not a phone that will not turn on or connect.
Can data be recovered from a phone with a completely black screen?
Often, yes. A black screen does not always mean the phone or its storage has failed. If the device still powers on and responds to charging, screen mirroring or a professional screen replacement can frequently restore access to everything on it.
Does a water damaged phone always lose its data?
No, not always. Storage chips themselves are fairly resistant to moisture. Most water damage data loss actually comes from corrosion shorting other components, or from the phone being repeatedly powered on after exposure. Acting quickly and not charging the phone significantly improves the odds.
How much does phone data recovery cost?
It depends entirely on what is wrong with the phone and how much work is needed to reach the data, from a straightforward screen or battery repair through to board level work. We diagnose first and confirm the cost before starting, so you are never charged for a recovery attempt without knowing the price upfront.
Can I recover data myself without professional help?
If the phone still turns on and responds in any way, quite possibly, using the cloud backup checks and mirroring methods above. Once a phone will not power on, has visible water damage, or shows no response to charging, DIY options are very limited and the wrong attempt can make professional recovery harder.
Is my data safe when I hand my phone in for repair?
Yes. Your data is never accessed, viewed or shared during a repair. It is only interacted with directly if you specifically request a data recovery or transfer service, and even then only with your knowledge.
Get your data back safely
Whatever is wrong with your phone, the safest first move is almost always the one that avoids further power cycles or DIY attempts on a device holding data you cannot replace. Our team can diagnose the fault, tell you honestly what your recovery options are, and carry out the repair once you are happy to go ahead.
How to Connect Apple Watch to iPhone (Pairing, Setup & Fixes)
Pairing an Apple Watch with an iPhone takes about five minutes when everything works first time, but a Bluetooth error, a stuck pairing screen, or a watchOS and iOS mismatch can turn it into an hour of frustration. This guide covers every pairing method, from the standard camera scan to manual pairing when the camera will not work, how to switch a watch to a new iPhone, and fixes for the most common connection failures.
Quick answer: how to pair your Apple Watch
Update your iPhone to the latest available iOS version and make sure the Apple Watch app is installed.
Turn on Bluetooth and Wi-Fi on your iPhone, and keep both devices within a few centimetres of each other.
Open the Watch app, tap “Pair New Watch”, and point your iPhone camera at the animation shown on the watch face.
Follow the prompts to choose “Set Up as New Apple Watch” or restore from a backup.
If the camera will not scan, tap “Pair Apple Watch Manually” at the bottom of the screen and enter the code shown on the watch instead.
What you need before you start
Every Apple Watch pairs with an iPhone 8 or later running a compatible, up to date version of iOS, though the newest watch models need a newer handset: Apple Watch Series 9 and later, and Apple Watch Ultra 2 and later, require iPhone XS or later. Before you start, check that you have the following.
A compatible iPhone signed in with an Apple ID, with a working internet connection.
Bluetooth and Wi-Fi switched on, and Airplane Mode switched off.
Your Apple Watch charged to at least 50 percent, with both devices sitting close together.
A watch that has been factory reset or unpaired if it was previously linked to another Apple ID. Buying secondhand? See our guide on how to unpair an Apple Watch to clear Activation Lock first.
If your iPhone itself is the problem, for example a cracked screen that stops the camera focusing properly, or a battery that will not hold enough charge to get through setup, pairing will keep failing no matter what you try on the watch side. Our iPhone screen repair and iPhone battery replacement services can get your handset back to full working order first.
How to pair an Apple Watch to iPhone for the first time
Charge your Apple Watch for at least 15 to 20 minutes before you begin.
Turn on the Apple Watch by holding the side button until the Apple logo appears.
Bring the watch close to your iPhone. A “Use your iPhone to set up this Apple Watch” prompt should appear on your iPhone automatically. If it does not, open the Watch app and tap “Pair New Watch” or the plus icon in the top corner.
Tap “Continue”, then hold your iPhone so the animated pattern on the watch face sits inside the camera viewfinder.
Once the watch shows “Paired”, agree to the terms and conditions and sign in with your Apple ID if prompted.
Choose “Set Up as New Apple Watch” or “Restore from Backup”, then select your wrist and preferred settings for Siri, Wrist Detection and analytics.
Set or skip a passcode, and choose whether to enable Apple Pay.
Leave both devices near each other and connected to Wi-Fi while the watch finishes syncing apps and settings. This can take anywhere from a few minutes to over an hour depending on how much data is being restored.
How to pair manually if the camera will not scan
If your iPhone camera cannot focus on the pairing animation, whether that is because of a cracked lens, poor lighting or a stiff shutter button blocking the view, you can enter a code by hand instead.
On the Apple Watch, tap the small “i” information icon on the pairing screen.
This reveals a six digit code, for example 123 456.
On your iPhone, open the Watch app, tap “Pair New Watch”, then tap “Pair Apple Watch Manually” at the bottom of the screen.
Select your Apple Watch from the list, then enter the six digit code shown on the watch.
Continue through the same setup steps as the camera method: choose your wrist, sign in, and set up as new or restore from backup.
Setting up as new vs restoring from a backup
“Set Up as New Apple Watch” gives you a clean device with no apps, health data or settings carried over, which is the right choice for a brand new watch or one bought secondhand. “Restore from Backup” reinstalls your apps, watch faces, complications and most settings from your most recent iCloud backup, which is what you want when replacing a lost, damaged or upgraded watch with the same Apple ID.
If you are moving from an older Apple Watch to a new one, unpair the old watch first so it creates a fresh backup automatically. Our step by step guide to unpairing an Apple Watch covers this, including how to remove Activation Lock so the old watch can be sold or handed on safely.
How to connect a second Apple Watch to the same iPhone
An iPhone can only have one Apple Watch actively connected as its primary watch at a time. If you own two watches, for example a Series model for everyday use and an Ultra for sport, you need to unpair whichever one is currently connected before pairing the other. Go to the Watch app, tap the currently paired watch, tap the info icon, then “Unpair Apple Watch” before starting the pairing process again with the second one.
The exception is Family Setup, available on cellular Apple Watch Series 6 and later and Ultra models, which lets you pair an additional watch to your iPhone on behalf of a child or relative who does not have their own iPhone. Family Setup is started from the Watch app under “Family Setup” rather than the standard “Pair New Watch” flow.
How to switch your Apple Watch to a new iPhone
On your old iPhone, open the Watch app, select your watch, tap the info icon and choose “Unpair Apple Watch”. This automatically creates a fresh backup before disconnecting.
Sign in to the same Apple ID on your new iPhone and restore your other data if needed.
Open the Watch app on the new iPhone and follow the standard first time pairing steps above.
Choose “Restore from Backup” and select the backup created when you unpaired the watch on your old iPhone.
For the full walkthrough on removing a watch safely, including what happens to Activation Lock and cellular plans, see how to unpair an Apple Watch.
Common pairing problems and how to fix them
Bluetooth will not turn on, or the toggle is greyed out. Restart your iPhone and check Settings, then Screen Time, then Content and Privacy Restrictions, to make sure Bluetooth has not been locked by a restriction profile.
“Unable to pair with Apple Watch” error. Force restart both devices, move away from other Bluetooth accessories such as headphones or speakers that might be interfering, and confirm your iPhone is running a compatible iOS version for your watch model.
Pairing stuck on a spinning wheel. Large backups can genuinely take 30 minutes or more to restore. Keep both devices on charge, close together, and connected to Wi-Fi rather than mobile data, and avoid closing the Watch app.
Watch does not appear in the Watch app at all. Make sure the watch is showing its pairing screen and not already linked to another Apple ID. Secondhand watches often still show “This Apple Watch is linked to an Apple ID” or an Activation Lock screen; our unpairing guide explains how to clear this, and our Apple Watch reset guide covers a full factory reset from the watch itself if you no longer have access to the original owner’s iPhone.
The watch will not turn on to start pairing. This is almost always a battery or charging fault rather than a pairing problem. If the watch will not hold charge or will not power on at all after a long charge, our Apple Watch battery replacement and Apple Watch charging repair services can diagnose and fix it.
The watch screen is cracked or unresponsive, so you cannot tap through setup. A damaged display can stop you confirming prompts or entering a passcode during pairing. Our Apple Watch screen repair service replaces cracked or dead displays so the watch is usable again before you try pairing.
The problem is actually the iPhone, not the watch. A phone that will not turn on, has a smashed screen, or has a battery so worn it dies mid setup will block pairing regardless of the watch’s condition. See our iPhone repairs page or book a charging port repair if the handset will not stay powered on long enough to finish setup.
Which Apple Watch models can pair with your iPhone
Every Apple Watch model pairs using the same process described above. The table below shows the minimum iPhone needed for each, and links through to model specific repair information and pricing if your watch needs fixing before, or instead of, pairing it.
Not sure which model you have engraved on the back, or need pricing for a specific repair before you pair it? Visit our full Apple Watch repair hub for every model.
Frequently asked questions
Can I pair an Apple Watch without an iPhone?
Not for the initial setup. Apple Watch always needs an iPhone to complete first time pairing. The one exception is Family Setup, which lets a family member’s iPhone pair an additional cellular Apple Watch on behalf of someone who does not own an iPhone themselves, after which that watch can be used somewhat independently.
Can I pair an Apple Watch with an Android phone?
No. Apple Watch only works with an iPhone. There is no official or reliable way to pair it with an Android device.
Why does pairing say a watchOS update is required?
Some newer iPhones need a newer watchOS version than an older Apple Watch is currently running. Keep both devices connected to Wi-Fi and power during pairing so the update can download and install automatically before setup continues.
How long does pairing take?
Pairing itself takes a couple of minutes, but restoring apps and data from a backup can add anywhere from five minutes to over an hour depending on how much was on your previous watch.
Do I need Wi-Fi, or is Bluetooth enough to pair?
Bluetooth handles the initial connection, but Wi-Fi is needed to download any required software updates and to restore apps and data, so keep both switched on throughout.
Can I use my old Apple Watch with a new iPhone without losing data?
Yes, as long as you unpair the watch from your old iPhone first rather than just switching it off. Unpairing creates a fresh backup that can be restored onto the same watch once it is paired with your new iPhone.
What if I forgot to unpair my Apple Watch before selling it?
The new owner will be blocked by Activation Lock and unable to pair it to their own iPhone. You can remove this remotely from your Apple ID at icloud.com, or by signing back into the Watch app if you still have access to it. See our guide to unpairing an Apple Watch for the full steps.
Still can’t get your Apple Watch to connect?
If you have worked through every step above and your Apple Watch or iPhone still will not pair, the cause is usually hardware rather than software: a failing battery, a damaged charging port, a cracked screen, or a broken button that stops you confirming prompts. Our engineers diagnose and repair all of these issues on the same day in most cases.
Apple Watch repair, covering every model from the original Apple Watch to the latest Ultra and Series releases.
Apple repair, for iPhone, iPad, MacBook and Apple Watch under one roof.
iPhone repairs, if the handset you are pairing with needs attention too.
How to Unpair an Apple Watch (With or Without Your iPhone)
Unpairing an Apple Watch is the correct way to erase it before selling, giving it away, sending it for repair, or moving to a new iPhone. It is not the same as a factory reset, and the difference matters: unpairing backs up your data, erases the watch and removes Activation Lock in one process. A factory reset does only the middle part.
Quick answer: how do I unpair an Apple Watch?
Keep the watch and iPhone close together
Open the Watch app on your iPhone
Tap All Watches at the top of the screen
Tap the info button next to your watch
Tap Unpair Apple Watch
On cellular models, choose whether to keep or remove your mobile plan
Enter your Apple Account password to switch off Activation Lock
Wait for it to finish before separating the devices
That password prompt is the step that actually matters. It releases the watch from your account, and skipping it is the most common reason a sold watch cannot be paired by its new owner.
What unpairing actually does
Three things happen in sequence, automatically.
It takes a fresh backup. Before erasing anything, your iPhone syncs a current backup of the watch. This is why unpairing is safer than wiping the watch directly.
It erases the watch. All content and settings are removed and the watch returns to its out-of-box state.
It removes Activation Lock. Entering your Apple Account password releases the watch so somebody else can set it up.
A factory reset performed on the watch itself does only step two. That distinction catches people out constantly.
Unpair, reset or erase: what is the difference?
Force restart – erases nothing. For a frozen watch only.
Reset settings – returns settings to default but keeps apps and data.
Erase all content and settings – wipes the watch but leaves Activation Lock in place. Use when you have no access to the paired iPhone.
Unpair – backs up, erases and removes Activation Lock. The right choice in almost every case where you still have the iPhone.
If the paired iPhone has been sold, lost, broken or already wiped, you cannot use the Watch app. You need two separate steps, and doing only one leaves the job half done.
Step one – erase the watch. On the watch, go to Settings, General, Reset, Erase All Content and Settings. Enter the passcode if prompted and confirm.
Step two – remove Activation Lock. On any computer, sign in to iCloud with the Apple Account the watch was paired to. Open Find My, select the watch, and choose Remove This Device.
Without step two the watch is erased but still locked to your account, and nobody else can pair it. This is exactly the situation second-hand buyers most often find themselves in.
How to unpair when the watch screen is broken
You do not need a working watch screen. Unpairing is driven entirely from the iPhone, so a cracked, black or unresponsive display does not prevent it.
Follow the standard steps in the Watch app. As long as the watch powers on and stays within Bluetooth range, the iPhone completes the backup, erase and Activation Lock removal without you touching the watch.
If the watch will not power on, the iPhone cannot reach it. Remove the device through Find My on iCloud instead, which releases Activation Lock even though the watch was never erased. Worth doing before sending a watch for repair or trade-in.
If the screen is the actual problem, we cover Apple Watch screen repair across every generation. A screen lifting at one edge is very often a swollen battery pushing it out rather than glass damage.
Should I keep or remove my cellular plan?
On GPS + Cellular models you are asked this during unpairing, and the right answer depends on what happens next.
Keep the plan if you are re-pairing to the same iPhone, sending the watch for repair, or upgrading your phone but keeping the watch and network.
Remove the plan if you are selling or giving the watch away, or switching network.
If you remove it and later need it back, you will have to re-add it through your network, which sometimes means a phone call. If in doubt and the watch is staying yours, keep it.
What happens to my data and backups?
Unpairing creates a fresh backup on your iPhone automatically. When you pair a watch again – the same one or a replacement – you are offered the option to restore from it.
What comes back: watch faces, app layout and settings, notification preferences, health and activity data, workout history and general configuration.
What does not: Bluetooth pairings, Apple Pay cards (removed for security and re-added manually), and Messages, which sync from the iPhone rather than the backup.
Health and fitness history lives in the Health app on your iPhone rather than solely on the watch, so it survives independently. The exception is a watch that has not synced recently – open the Watch app and let it sync first, particularly if the watch has been off or out of range.
Unpairing before you sell: a checklist
Sync first. Keep the watch near the iPhone so the backup is current.
Unpair through the Watch app rather than resetting the watch itself.
Remove the cellular plan if the watch is leaving you.
Enter your Apple Account password when prompted. Do not skip this.
Check Find My afterwards and confirm the watch has gone from your device list.
Keep your bands if you want them, and clean the contacts.
Step five takes thirty seconds and is the difference between a smooth sale and a buyer who cannot use what they bought.
Unpairing to move to a new iPhone
You usually do not need to unpair at all. If you set up the new iPhone from a backup of the old one, the watch transfers across automatically.
Unpair only if you are setting the new iPhone up as new rather than from a backup, or if the transfer fails. In that case unpair from the old iPhone first if you still have it, then pair to the new one and restore from the backup. If the old iPhone is gone, use the without-the-iPhone method above.
Common problems while unpairing
Unpairing is stuck or spinning. A backup runs first, so several minutes is normal. Keep both devices close and charged and leave it alone. If nothing has changed after 30 minutes, force restart the watch by holding the side button and Digital Crown for 10 seconds, then try again.
The watch is not listed in the Watch app. Check Bluetooth is on and the devices are in range. Restarting both usually restores the connection.
It asks for a password you do not remember. That is your Apple Account password, not the watch passcode. Reset it through Apple account recovery, then try again.
It says unpairing failed. Try again with Wi-Fi on, since Activation Lock removal needs an internet connection to reach Apple’s servers.
The watch still appears in Find My. Remove it manually there. The entry occasionally lingers even when unpairing completed.
What unpairing will not fix
Unpairing is housekeeping, not a repair. If the watch has a hardware fault, erasing it changes nothing:
Open the Watch app on your iPhone, tap All Watches, tap the info button beside your watch, then tap Unpair Apple Watch. Enter your Apple Account password when prompted to remove Activation Lock, and keep both devices close until it finishes. This backs up, erases and releases the watch in one process.
Does unpairing an Apple Watch erase everything?
Yes, the watch is wiped completely – but a fresh backup is taken to your iPhone first, so nothing is truly lost. Pairing a watch again lets you restore that backup, bringing back watch faces, settings, health data and workout history.
How do I unpair an Apple Watch without the iPhone?
Erase the watch via Settings, General, Reset, Erase All Content and Settings. Then separately sign in to iCloud on a computer, open Find My, select the watch and choose Remove This Device. Both steps are needed – the first erases it, the second removes Activation Lock.
Can I unpair an Apple Watch with a broken screen?
Yes. Unpairing runs entirely from the iPhone, so a cracked or unresponsive display does not prevent it, provided the watch powers on and stays in Bluetooth range. If it will not power on, remove it through Find My on iCloud instead.
What is the difference between unpairing and resetting an Apple Watch?
Unpairing backs up your data, erases the watch and removes Activation Lock. A factory reset on the watch only erases it – Activation Lock stays, so the watch remains tied to your Apple Account and nobody else can pair it. Always unpair if you still have the iPhone.
Should I keep or remove my cellular plan when unpairing?
Keep it if you are re-pairing to the same iPhone, sending the watch for repair, or upgrading your phone but keeping the watch. Remove it if you are selling or giving the watch away, or changing network. Re-adding a removed plan sometimes requires contacting your network.
Do I need to unpair before getting a new iPhone?
Usually not. If you set up the new iPhone from a backup of the old one, the watch transfers automatically. Only unpair if you are setting the new phone up as new, or if the automatic transfer fails.
Why is my Apple Watch stuck while unpairing?
A backup runs before the erase, so several minutes is normal. Keep both devices close and charged and leave it alone. If nothing changes after 30 minutes, force restart the watch by holding the side button and Digital Crown for 10 seconds, then try again with Wi-Fi enabled.
Does unpairing remove Activation Lock?
Yes, provided you enter your Apple Account password when prompted. Afterwards, check the watch no longer appears in Find My – if it does, remove it there manually.
Need a repair rather than a reset?
If the watch is unpaired and the problem is still there, it is hardware. We repair screens, batteries and charging faults across every Apple Watch generation, with a 12-month guarantee on parts and labour.
Contact us with your model and what it is doing, and we will confirm a fixed price before any work begins. We work from our Essex workshop and accept devices from across the UK by tracked, insured post.
Pairing a replacement watch, or setting one up for the first time? See our full guide on how to connect an Apple Watch to iPhone, including manual pairing and switching to a new handset.
How to Reset an Apple Watch (Every Method Explained)
There are four different ways to reset an Apple Watch, and picking the wrong one either fails to fix your problem or wipes data you did not mean to lose. This guide covers all of them, in order of how drastic they are, plus the one step almost everyone forgets before selling a watch.
Quick answer: which reset do you need?
Watch frozen or unresponsive? Force restart. Nothing is erased.
Odd behaviour, settings playing up? Reset settings only. Your data stays.
Selling, giving away or starting fresh? Unpair from your iPhone. This backs up, erases and removes Activation Lock in one step.
Forgotten passcode, or no access to the paired iPhone? Factory reset on the watch itself.
If you are getting rid of the watch, unpairing from the iPhone is the correct method – not a factory reset on the watch. The reason why is explained below, and getting it wrong leaves the watch unusable for the next owner.
1. Force restart (soft reset) – fixes a frozen watch
This is the equivalent of pulling the plug. It erases nothing at all and is always the first thing to try when the watch has locked up, is stuck on the Apple logo, or will not respond to taps.
Hold the side button and the Digital Crown together for at least 10 seconds, then let go when the Apple logo appears. Hold longer than feels right – a lot of people release after five seconds and conclude it has not worked.
Only use this if the watch is genuinely unresponsive. If it is working normally, switch it off and on instead by holding the side button and dragging the Power Off slider.
2. Reset settings only – keeps your data
Less well known and often the right middle ground. It returns settings to default without erasing apps, health data or watch faces.
On the watch: Settings, then General, then Reset, then Reset Settings. Useful when something is behaving oddly – notifications not arriving, brightness or haptics misbehaving – but you do not want to start over.
3. Factory reset from the watch itself
This erases everything on the watch. Use it when you cannot get to the paired iPhone, or when you have forgotten your passcode.
Open Settings on the watch
Tap General, then Reset
Tap Erase All Content and Settings
Enter your passcode if prompted
On a cellular model, choose whether to keep or remove your mobile plan – keep it if you are re-pairing to the same iPhone
Confirm and wait for the watch to restart
Important: this does not remove Activation Lock. The watch will still be tied to your Apple Account, so anyone else pairing it will be locked out. See the section below.
4. Unpair from your iPhone – the method to use before selling
This is the one most people should use. Unpairing takes a fresh backup, erases the watch and removes Activation Lock, all in a single process.
Keep the watch and iPhone close together
Open the Watch app on your iPhone
Tap All Watches at the top
Tap the info button next to your watch
Tap Unpair Apple Watch
On cellular models, choose to keep or remove the plan
Enter your Apple Account password to turn off Activation Lock
Wait for the process to finish before disconnecting
That password prompt is the critical step. It is what actually releases the watch, and it is why unpairing is the correct route rather than an on-watch factory reset.
We have a dedicated guide to unpairing an Apple Watch, covering every scenario including when you no longer have the paired iPhone and when the watch screen is broken.
Activation Lock: the step everyone forgets
Activation Lock ties the watch to your Apple Account so a stolen device cannot be reused. It is a genuinely good security feature and a genuine problem if you skip removing it.
If you factory reset the watch from the watch itself and then sell it, the buyer cannot pair it. It will ask for your Apple Account credentials, and no repair shop, no Apple Store and no amount of resetting can bypass that. The only fix is for you to remove it remotely.
To remove it after the fact, sign in to iCloud on a computer, open Find My, select the watch, choose Remove This Device, and confirm. If you bought a second-hand watch that is Activation Locked, the only legitimate route is to go back to the seller.
Before selling, it is also worth checking the watch is not still listed in your Apple Account device list.
How to reset an Apple Watch without the paired iPhone
Common when the iPhone has been sold, lost or replaced. Use the on-watch factory reset in section 3 above – it works without the phone.
The catch is Activation Lock again. Erasing the watch without the iPhone does not release it from your Apple Account, so you must sign in to iCloud separately through Find My on any computer and remove the device there. Do both, or the watch will be erased but still locked.
How to reset an Apple Watch with a forgotten passcode
If you cannot remember the passcode and the watch is locked, you have two routes.
With the paired iPhone: unpair using the Watch app as described above. It erases and restores the passcode-free state, then you can set it up again from a backup.
Without the iPhone: put the watch on its charger, hold the side button until Power Off appears, then firmly press and hold the Digital Crown until the Erase All Content and Settings option appears. Confirm it.
Ten failed passcode attempts will disable the watch entirely, so it is better to reset deliberately than to keep guessing.
Will a reset erase my health and fitness data?
Not permanently, provided the watch was paired to an iPhone. Health and activity data syncs to the Health app on your iPhone, so it lives there independently of the watch.
When you unpair, the iPhone takes a fresh backup automatically, and pairing a new or reset watch lets you restore from it. Your rings, workouts and history come back.
The exception is a watch that was never properly paired or synced, or one where the paired iPhone has already been wiped. In that situation the data may only exist on the watch, and a factory reset removes it for good – so sync before you erase.
What a reset will not fix
Worth being straight about, because a lot of people reset repeatedly hoping a hardware fault will disappear. A reset only addresses software. It will not help with:
A cracked or lifting screen. Swelling underneath usually means the battery, not the glass – see Apple Watch screen repair.
Battery draining in hours, or the watch dying overnight. That is a worn cell, not a software glitch – see Apple Watch battery replacement.
Water inside the display, or the screen lifting at one edge. A lifting screen is very often a swollen battery pushing it out, and that needs looking at rather than resetting.
A watch that will not power on at all even on the charger after 30 minutes.
A useful rule: if a force restart fixes it temporarily and the problem returns, it is usually hardware. If a full erase and setup does not change anything, it is definitely hardware.
Common problems while resetting
Stuck on the Apple logo or spinning wheel. A full erase can take 15 to 30 minutes on older models. Leave it on the charger and do not interrupt it. If it is still there after an hour, force restart and try again.
The watch will not unpair. Keep it close to the iPhone, make sure both have Bluetooth and Wi-Fi on, and try restarting both first.
Erase option greyed out. Usually the watch is not charged enough. Put it on the charger for half an hour and try again.
Watch will not pair after reset. Almost always Activation Lock. Check Find My and remove the device from your Apple Account.
Which Apple Watch do you have?
The reset steps above are the same across every model, though older watches take noticeably longer to erase. If you need a repair rather than a reset, find your model below:
Hold the side button and the Digital Crown together for at least 10 seconds, then release when the Apple logo appears. This erases nothing and is the correct first step for a frozen or unresponsive watch. Only use it when the watch will not respond normally.
How do I factory reset an Apple Watch?
On the watch, go to Settings, then General, then Reset, then Erase All Content and Settings. Enter your passcode if asked and confirm. Note that this does not remove Activation Lock – if you are selling the watch, unpair it from your iPhone instead.
How do I reset an Apple Watch without the iPhone?
Use the on-watch reset: Settings, General, Reset, Erase All Content and Settings. That works without the phone, but it will not remove Activation Lock. You must also sign in to iCloud on a computer, open Find My, select the watch and choose Remove This Device.
Does resetting an Apple Watch delete my health data?
Not permanently, as long as it was paired to an iPhone. Health and activity data syncs to the Health app on the phone and stays there. Unpairing takes a fresh backup automatically, so you can restore it to a new or reset watch.
How do I reset an Apple Watch if I forgot the passcode?
With the paired iPhone, unpair using the Watch app. Without it, put the watch on its charger, hold the side button until Power Off appears, then press and hold the Digital Crown until Erase All Content and Settings appears. Avoid repeated guesses – ten failed attempts disables the watch.
Why won’t my Apple Watch pair after I reset it?
Almost always Activation Lock. A factory reset from the watch does not release it from your Apple Account. Sign in to iCloud on a computer, open Find My, select the watch and choose Remove This Device. If you bought it second-hand, only the original owner can do this.
How long does an Apple Watch reset take?
A force restart is a few seconds. A full erase typically takes 15 to 30 minutes, longer on older models. Keep the watch on its charger and do not interrupt it. If it is still on the Apple logo after an hour, force restart and try again.
Will resetting fix my Apple Watch battery problem?
No. A reset only addresses software. If your watch drains in hours or dies overnight, the cell has degraded and needs replacing. A swollen battery can also push the screen up at one edge, which needs attention rather than another reset.
Still not working after a reset?
If you have erased the watch and the problem is still there, it is a hardware fault and no amount of resetting will change it. We repair screens, batteries and charging faults across every Apple Watch generation, with a 12-month guarantee on parts and labour.
Contact us with your model and what it is doing, and we will give you a fixed price before any work starts. We work from our Essex workshop and take devices from across the UK by tracked, insured post.
Setting up a watch from scratch, or pairing one after a factory reset? See our full guide on how to connect an Apple Watch to iPhone, covering both the standard camera pairing method and manual pairing if the camera will not scan.
How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Samsung Screen?
Samsung screen replacement in the UK ranges from around £49 for an entry-level Galaxy A model to £299 for the newest flagships. The gap is enormous, and it is not arbitrary – it comes down to the panel technology inside your specific handset. This guide explains what drives the price and links you straight to the current cost for every Samsung we repair.
Quick answer: how much does a Samsung screen replacement cost?
At iExpert Repairs, Samsung screen replacement costs £49 to £299 depending on the model:
Galaxy A series (budget): £49 to £99
Galaxy S series (flagship): £99 to £299
Galaxy Note series: £119 to £199
Galaxy Z foldables: £89 to £599
Every price includes the part, the labour and a 12-month guarantee, with no separate assessment fee. Prices are kept current on each model page, so follow the link for your handset to see exactly what it costs today. Our full Samsung screen repair service page covers the process.
What actually determines the price?
1. AMOLED versus LCD. The biggest factor by far. Samsung flagships use Super AMOLED, which generates light at each pixel rather than using a backlight. It produces the deep blacks the S series is known for and costs far more to manufacture. Budget A-series models mostly use LCD, mature technology made in huge volume. That single difference is why the cheapest Galaxy A screen is roughly a sixth of the price of the most expensive flagship panel.
2. Whether the glass curves. A flat panel lifts off the frame. A curved panel is bonded around the sides and must be released with controlled heat, then re-bonded evenly. Slower, riskier work, and the price reflects the time as much as the part.
3. Physical size. Panel cost scales with area and manufacturing yield – larger sheets fail quality control more often, so fewer usable panels come off each production run. That is why an Ultra model always costs more than the standard version of the same generation.
4. Whether it folds. Foldables have two screens, and the flexible inner panel is among the most expensive components in any phone.
Galaxy S series screen replacement
The S series spans nearly a decade of flagships, and prices run from £99 to £299. The newest panels are still expensive to source, while older S models have settled considerably. Follow your model for its current price:
A folding phone has two separate screens. The flexible inner display is the expensive one; the outer cover screen is a conventional panel and costs considerably less. Tell us which is damaged when you get in touch, because quoting the wrong one produces a wildly wrong price.
The other issue specific to folders is grit. The hinge draws in dust and sand, and particles working under the inner panel cause bumps and eventually cracks along the fold. A mark along the crease is usually that rather than anything you did.
The Note range uses AMOLED panels and an S Pen that writes through a digitiser layer beneath the display. A replacement screen has to preserve that layer, not just restore touch – a panel can respond perfectly to fingers and still read the S Pen inconsistently near the edges.
Galaxy A series screen replacement
The A series is where Samsung sells the most handsets in the UK, and it is by far the cheapest range to repair at £49 to £99.
Before paying for any screen, check whether the display has failed or only the backlight has gone. This works on LCD models, which covers most of the Galaxy A range.
Take the phone into a dark room and shine a torch at the screen at an angle. If you can faintly make out your home screen underneath, the backlight has failed rather than the panel, and everything on the phone is intact. If the phone rings, vibrates or appears when plugged into a computer but the screen stays black, it is running fine behind a dead display – our guide to phones that will not turn on covers those checks.
Why is my Samsung screen showing a green line?
A thin green or pink line down the display, particularly after a software update, is a known AMOLED fault rather than damage you caused. It affects S20 to S23 models and the Note 20 most heavily. No software fix removes it, and the only reliable repair is a screen replacement. Samsung ran a free replacement programme but it closed in September 2025. See our full guide to the green line issue.
Original versus aftermarket Samsung screens
You will see quotes far below ours. It is worth knowing what the difference buys.
Genuine Samsung service packs come with the frame attached and match original colour, brightness and touch exactly. Most expensive.
Quality aftermarket AMOLED is made to the same specification by third parties. On most models these are visually indistinguishable in normal use, and they are what our pricing is based on.
Cheap TFT or incell copies are where the very low quotes come from. On an AMOLED phone this is a downgrade you will notice – blacks look grey, brightness is lower, colour is flatter, and the always-on display drains far more battery because the panel cannot switch off individual pixels.
Ask any repairer which grade they are quoting. A price that looks too good on an S-series Samsung usually means a TFT copy fitted in place of an AMOLED.
What is included
The replacement display assembly
All labour
A 12-month guarantee on parts and workmanship
Touch response tested across the whole panel, including curved edges
Fingerprint sensor re-tested on in-display models
Proximity and ambient light sensor checks
Free clearing of a lint-blocked charging port while it is with us
The in-display fingerprint sensor matters
Most modern Galaxy flagships read your fingerprint through the screen, so a replacement panel must be seated correctly against the sensor behind it and enrolment retested. Skip that and the phone comes back with a flawless display and a reader that recognises nothing – discovered the next time you pick it up rather than in the shop. It is a fair question to put to any repairer.
Is it worth replacing a Samsung screen?
What is the phone worth against the repair? On a recent flagship the screen is a fraction of what a replacement handset costs, so repair is straightforward. On an entry-level A-series phone the screen can cost close to the phone’s used value – which does not make it wrong, but it deserves thought.
Is anything else wrong? A screen alone is one repair. A screen plus a tired battery plus a worn charging port is three, and the arithmetic usually stops working. We will tell you when you have reached that point rather than quoting for everything.
How long will you keep it? A new panel with a 12-month guarantee on a phone you plan to keep two more years is money well spent.
If repair does not make sense we will say so and help you get the data off instead – data recovery is often the better spend on an older handset.
Screen and battery together
If the phone is a few years old and needs a screen anyway, ask about the battery at the same time. The phone is already open so you save on labour, and a degraded cell is the other thing most likely to send you back within the year. See Samsung battery replacement for current pricing. If it has been shutting down or draining fast, our guide to rapid battery drain explains why.
How long does it take?
Most flat-screen models are same-day once the phone is with us. Curved AMOLED panels take longer because the assembly must be heat-released and re-bonded evenly, then tested. Foldable inner screens are the longest job. We confirm a realistic timescale with the fixed quote.
Samsung tablets
Galaxy Tab screens follow the same logic – AMOLED costs far more than LCD, and size drives the rest. Two tablets from the same generation can differ by several hundred pounds purely because one uses an LCD panel and the other AMOLED. See Samsung tablet repairs for current prices.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to replace a Samsung screen in the UK?
Between £49 and £299 depending on the model. Budget Galaxy A handsets start around £49, Galaxy S flagships run £99 to £299, Note models £119 to £139 and Z foldables £89 to £229. Every price includes parts, labour and a 12-month guarantee. Follow the link for your model to see its current price.
Why are Samsung screens more expensive than other Android phones?
Because Samsung fits AMOLED panels across most of its range. AMOLED generates light at each individual pixel instead of using a backlight, giving better contrast but costing considerably more to make. Budget A-series models use LCD, which is why they are so much cheaper to repair.
Is it cheaper to repair a Samsung screen or buy a new phone?
On a flagship, repair is almost always cheaper – the screen is a fraction of what a replacement handset costs. On an entry-level A-series phone the screen can approach the phone’s used value, so it is a genuine decision. Two or more faults at once is usually where repair stops making sense.
Can a cracked Samsung screen be repaired without full replacement?
Not on modern models. The glass, touch layer and display are bonded into a single assembly and replaced together. Any quote offering a cheap glass-only repair on a Galaxy S or Note handset should be treated with real caution.
Will I lose my data during a Samsung screen replacement?
No. A screen replacement does not touch storage, so photographs, messages, apps and accounts come back exactly as they were. Backing up beforehand is sensible practice, but the repair itself does not put data at risk.
Does replacing the screen affect the fingerprint sensor?
It can if the work is rushed. Most modern Galaxy flagships read fingerprints through the display, so the new panel must be seated correctly against the sensor and enrolment retested. We check it before the phone goes back.
Why does my Samsung screen have a green line?
It is a known AMOLED panel fault, most common on S20 to S23 and Note 20 models and often appearing after a software update. No software fix removes it and the only reliable repair is a screen replacement.
Do you repair Samsung foldable screens?
Yes, across the Z Fold and Z Flip ranges. A folder has two screens at very different prices, so tell us which is damaged when you contact us.
Do you offer a warranty on Samsung screen repairs?
Yes, 12 months on both the part and the workmanship. If a replacement screen develops dead touch areas, colour problems or lifts at an edge in normal use, it comes back to us at no cost. A fresh drop is a new accident rather than a failed repair, and we say so plainly.
Get an exact price for your Samsung
Follow your model above for its current price, or tell us which handset you have and what happened. iExpert Repairs works from our Essex workshop and accepts devices from anywhere in the UK through a tracked, fully insured mail-in service.
Contact us and we will confirm a fixed price and realistic timescale before anything is done. If the repair is not worth doing, we will tell you rather than take the booking.
A phone that will not turn on is alarming in a way that most faults are not. There is no error message, no clue and no obvious cause – just a black screen and no response. The good news is that in a large proportion of cases the phone is not dead at all, and several of the fixes cost nothing.
Quick answer: why is my phone not turning on?
A phone that will not turn on almost always comes down to one of five things: a completely flat or failed battery, a faulty charging cable or port, a software crash that has left the phone frozen rather than off, a broken screen on a phone that is actually running, or liquid or impact damage to the board.
Start with a forced restart and a 30-minute charge on a known-good cable. Between them those two steps resolve most cases. If the phone vibrates, makes sounds, or shows up on a computer but the screen stays black, the phone is alive and you are looking at a display fault rather than a dead device.
First: is your phone actually off, or just showing a black screen?
This is the single most useful distinction, and almost nobody checks it first. A phone with a failed screen looks identical to a phone that is completely dead, but they are entirely different repairs at very different prices.
Run these three checks in order:
Ring it from another phone. If it rings, vibrates or lights up an LED, the phone is powered on and working. Your problem is the display.
Plug it into a computer. If the computer chimes, or the phone appears in File Explorer or Finder, it is running.
Shine a torch at the screen in a dark room, at an angle. On phones with LCD screens, a failed backlight leaves the image faintly visible underneath. If you can just make out your home screen or lock screen, the display has failed rather than the phone.
If any of those tests show signs of life, stop worrying about the battery. You need a screen repair, and everything on the phone is safe.
The torch test only works on LCD panels. Most modern flagships use OLED, which has no backlight, so a blank OLED screen needs a proper diagnosis rather than that shortcut.
Step 1: force restart the phone
Phones do not always crash gracefully. A software freeze can leave a handset in a state where the screen is off, the buttons do nothing, and it looks completely dead – while the battery quietly drains. A forced restart cuts power to the hardware and reboots it, and it costs nothing to try.
The button combination differs by phone:
iPhone 8 and newer: press and release volume up, press and release volume down, then press and hold the side button for around 10 seconds until the Apple logo appears.
iPhone 7 and 7 Plus: hold volume down and the side button together for about 10 seconds.
iPhone 6s and earlier: hold the home button and the top or side button together.
Samsung, Google Pixel, Huawei and most Android phones: hold power and volume down together for 10 to 20 seconds.
Hold longer than feels reasonable. Many people give up after three or four seconds, which is not enough. If nothing happens on the first attempt, plug the phone into a charger and try the same combination again while it is connected.
Step 2: charge it properly for 30 minutes
A deeply discharged lithium battery cannot power a phone straight away. If a battery has been flat for days or weeks, it needs to build up enough charge before the phone will even display a charging symbol – and that can take 15 to 30 minutes of being plugged in with no visible sign that anything is happening.
Do this properly rather than assuming:
Use a different cable. Cables fail internally at the strain relief far more often than ports fail, and a broken cable shows no outward damage. This is the most common cause of a phone that seems dead.
Use a different plug, and a wall socket rather than a laptop USB port. Laptop ports often deliver too little current to revive a flat battery.
Leave it for 30 minutes before judging. Do not press buttons repeatedly during this time.
Try wireless charging if your phone supports it. If the phone charges wirelessly but not by cable, the charging port is your fault, not the battery.
That last test is genuinely useful and almost nobody thinks of it. It isolates the port from the battery in seconds.
Step 3: check the charging port for lint
This is the most under-appreciated cause of a phone that will not turn on, and it is free to fix.
Every time a phone goes into a pocket or a bag, the charging socket collects fibres. Over months that lint compacts into a solid plug at the bottom of the port, and the cable can no longer seat fully. It feels like it is connected – it may even click – but the contacts are not meeting, so the phone never charges and eventually goes flat.
Shine a torch into the port and look. If you can see grey fuzz packed at the bottom, that is your problem. Switch the phone off, and gently hook it out with a wooden or plastic toothpick. Never use a metal pin, a needle or a paperclip – you can short the contacts or bend a pin, turning a free fix into a paid repair.
If the port is clean and the phone still will not charge, our guide to phones that will not charge covers the next steps in detail.
Step 4: rule out the battery
Lithium batteries do not last forever. They degrade by charge cycles rather than by calendar age, so a phone charged daily for three or four years will hold a fraction of its original capacity. Eventually a cell degrades to the point where it cannot deliver enough current to boot the phone at all, even though it may still show a charge.
Signs that the battery is the culprit:
The phone died suddenly at 20 or 30 per cent rather than counting down to zero.
It had been shutting down unexpectedly in cold weather for weeks beforehand.
It only powers on while physically connected to a charger, and dies the moment you unplug it.
The back of the phone has started to bulge, or the screen sits slightly proud of the frame.
That last one matters. A swollen battery is a genuine safety issue. Stop charging the phone immediately, do not press on the back or try to compress it, and do not puncture it under any circumstances. Get it to a repair shop as it is.
If the phone had been draining unusually fast before it died, our guide to fast battery drain explains what was probably happening.
Step 5: consider what happened just before it died
The 24 hours before a phone stops turning on usually contain the answer. Think back honestly:
Was it dropped? Even a knock that left no visible damage can disturb the battery or display connector inside.
Did it get wet? Including rain, a bathroom shelf during a shower, or a spill you thought you had dried. Corrosion works slowly, so a phone can fail days after the event.
Was it very hot or very cold? A phone left on a car dashboard in summer or in a coat pocket during a frost can shut down to protect itself.
Did it fail during or just after a software update? An interrupted update can leave a phone unable to boot, which is often recoverable.
Was it charging with an unbranded cheap charger? Poor-quality chargers can deliver unstable voltage and damage the charging circuit.
If liquid is involved, act now rather than later. Do not plug it in and do not try to charge it – power running through a wet board is what turns a recoverable phone into a dead one, and it causes more write-offs than the liquid itself. Rice does nothing useful; it draws surface moisture while corrosion continues underneath. Our guide to water damaged phones explains the first hour in detail, and our water damage repair service covers the professional clean.
Step 6: try a recovery boot before giving up
If the phone still shows nothing, there is one more free step worth trying. Both iPhone and Android can be forced into a recovery mode that bypasses the normal boot process, and a phone that reaches recovery is not dead – it has a software problem, which is far better news than a hardware one.
iPhone: connect it to a computer, open Finder or iTunes, then perform the forced restart button sequence for your model but keep holding the final button past the Apple logo until a cable-and-computer image appears. If you see that screen, the hardware is fine and the software needs restoring.
Android: with the phone off, hold volume down and power together. Most Samsung, Pixel and Huawei handsets will boot into a bootloader or recovery menu. If you reach a menu, the phone is alive.
Be aware that restoring an iPhone in recovery mode usually erases it. If you have no backup, that is a very good reason to speak to a repair shop first rather than clicking through – data recovery is often possible before a restore, and impossible afterwards.
If the screen is black or the phone will not respond at all, see our full guide on how to get data off a broken phone for scenario by scenario steps before you hand it in.
What causes a phone to stop turning on?
Cause
Typical signs
Fix
Flat or failed battery
Died suddenly at 20-30%, or only runs while plugged in
Battery replacement
Faulty cable or plug
Charges on a different cable, or wirelessly but not wired
Free – replace the cable
Lint in the charging port
Cable feels loose or will not click in fully
Free – clear the port
Failed charging port
Clean port, good cable, still no charge
Charging port repair
Broken display
Phone rings, vibrates or shows on a computer
Screen replacement
Software crash or failed update
Reaches recovery mode
Software restore
Liquid damage
Known exposure, possible corrosion
Board clean, sometimes data recovery only
Impact damage to the board
Dropped, no response to anything
Board-level diagnosis
What it costs to fix in the UK
Because the cause determines the repair, the price range is wide. These are our fixed prices, including parts, labour and a 12-month guarantee:
Charging port cleaning – free as part of any diagnosis
Is it worth repairing a phone that will not turn on?
It depends entirely on what is wrong, which is why a diagnosis matters before you make the decision.
Almost always worth it: a battery, a charging port, or a cleaning job. These are inexpensive relative to any handset and they restore the phone completely.
Usually worth it: a screen replacement on a phone that is otherwise sound, particularly if the handset still has resale value or you were not planning to replace it.
Often not worth it: board-level liquid damage on an older or budget phone, or a phone needing several repairs at once. At that point the sensible spend is usually data recovery rather than a full repair, and we will tell you when you have reached it rather than quoting for everything.
What we will not do is take payment for a repair that leaves you disappointed. If the honest answer is that the phone is not worth saving, you will hear that.
What about the data?
This is what most people are actually worried about, and it deserves a direct answer.
If the phone is not turning on because of a battery, a charging port or a screen, your data is completely safe. None of those repairs touch the storage, and everything comes back exactly as it was.
Where liquid or board damage is involved, data becomes the priority rather than the repair. Even a phone that will never work again will often give up its photographs, messages and contacts – but the odds fall the longer corrosion is left, which is the main argument for acting quickly rather than leaving it in a drawer for a fortnight. Our data recovery service covers exactly this.
One practical point: if your phone is currently working but showing warning signs – random shutdowns, rapid drain, refusing to charge – back it up today. It is far easier to protect data before a phone dies than after.
What not to do
Do not put it in rice. It does not draw moisture from inside the board and it delays the clean that would actually help.
Do not keep pressing the power button repeatedly. If the phone is frozen, a proper forced restart is what is needed.
Do not use a metal pin in the charging port. You risk shorting the contacts or bending a pin.
Do not charge a phone with a swollen back. Stop and get it looked at.
Do not try a hairdryer or oven “fix”. Heat damages adhesives, screens and batteries, and can make a swollen cell genuinely dangerous.
Do not restore an iPhone in recovery mode if you have no backup until you have asked about data recovery first.
How we diagnose a phone that will not turn on
When a dead phone arrives with us, we work through the same sequence every time rather than guessing.
Bench power test. We connect the phone to a supply that shows exactly how much current it is drawing. That single reading tells us whether the board is alive, shorted or drawing nothing at all – before anything is opened.
Known-good cable and charger. Eliminating the simplest cause first.
Port inspection and cleaning. Compacted lint is cleared at no charge.
Battery check. Voltage and behaviour under load, which reveals a cell that shows charge but cannot deliver current.
Display isolation. A test screen tells us whether the phone is running behind a failed panel.
Corrosion inspection. If liquid is suspected, the board is examined before power is applied again.
You get a fixed price after that. If the answer turns out to be a £6 cable, we will tell you that too.
Why is my phone not turning on even when plugged in?
Most often the cable, the plug or the charging port rather than the phone. Try a different cable and a wall socket rather than a laptop port, then check the charging socket for compacted lint with a torch. If the phone charges wirelessly but not by cable, the port is your fault. If none of that works, a failed battery that can no longer accept charge is the next most likely cause.
How do I force restart a phone that will not turn on?
On iPhone 8 and newer, press and release volume up, press and release volume down, then hold the side button for around 10 seconds. On iPhone 7, hold volume down and the side button together. On most Android phones including Samsung, Pixel and Huawei, hold power and volume down together for 10 to 20 seconds. Hold longer than feels necessary, and try again while the phone is plugged in.
How long should I charge a dead phone before it turns on?
At least 30 minutes on a known-good cable and a wall plug. A deeply discharged lithium battery needs to build up charge before the phone can display anything at all, so a completely flat phone can show no sign of life for 15 to 30 minutes. Do not judge it after five.
My phone vibrates but the screen stays black. What does that mean?
The phone is powered on and working, and the display has failed. That is a screen repair rather than a dead phone, and your data is entirely safe. Confirm it by ringing the phone or plugging it into a computer to see whether it is recognised.
Can a completely dead phone be fixed?
Usually, yes. Most phones that will not turn on need a battery, a charging port, a screen or a software restore, and all of those are routine repairs. Board-level liquid damage is the exception, and even then data recovery is often still possible.
Will I lose my data if my phone will not turn on?
Not for a battery, charging port or screen repair – none of those touch your storage and everything comes back as it was. With liquid or board damage the picture is less certain, but photographs and messages can often still be recovered. The odds improve significantly if you act quickly rather than leaving the phone for weeks.
Is a swollen battery dangerous?
Yes. If the back of your phone is bulging or the screen is lifting from the frame, stop charging it immediately, do not press or puncture it, and have it replaced. A swollen lithium cell is a genuine fire risk and is not something to keep using.
Does putting a wet phone in rice work?
No. Rice absorbs surface moisture but does nothing about liquid already inside the phone, and while it sits there corrosion continues on the board. What actually helps is switching the phone off, not charging it, and getting it professionally cleaned quickly.
How much does it cost to fix a phone that will not turn on?
It depends on the cause. Clearing a blocked charging port is free as part of our diagnosis. A battery replacement is typically £45 to £89 and a charging port repair £49 to £79. Screen prices vary by model. Our £15 diagnostic covers a full investigation and a fixed quote before any work starts.
How long does the repair take?
Battery, charging port and most screen repairs are usually completed the same day once the phone is with us. Liquid damage takes longer because the board needs cleaning and drying properly before it can be tested. We confirm a realistic timescale with the quote.
Get a fixed price before you commit
If your phone will not turn on and the free steps above have not worked, we can tell you what is actually wrong before you spend anything. iExpert Repairs works from our Essex workshop and accepts devices from across the UK through a tracked, fully insured mail-in service, so you do not need to be local.
Contact us with your model and what happened, and we will come back with a fixed price and a realistic timescale. Nothing is done until you approve it, and if the phone is not worth repairing we will say so rather than take the booking.
